Travel Log: Topeka Kansas

I had flown into Kansas City on Tuesday May 8th, meeting my friend Rich, an architect, from Seattle. Starting the next morning we began traveling to the towns on his list of sites to visit (roof inspections for a national property management company). Prior posts will give you detailed accounts of other towns visited on this trip.

We arrived in Topeka Kansas just after midnight on Friday evening, getting the last room at a Motel 6 on the sprawling west edge of town. I was so tired by that point I don’t think I even complained about carrying my suitcase up to the third floor room (and my close friends will tell you I would normally have complained about a 3-story building lacking an elevator).

Above is a morning photo from the 3rd floor walkway of the Motel 6, looking across the street. The building nearest the street contains a Starbucks Coffee with a drive-thru window (just to the left of the view). As you can see, the grass is bright green and well cut. Look, they even have a sidewalk running along the street. Of course, like most suburban areas, the sidewalk is simply for show — it really doesn’t function for anyone. The sidewalks, you see, simply create parallel borders for the main arterial road. The sidewalks cannot be bothered to actually connect a business to another business so that someone might actually use them. This is a common problem, not unique to Topeka. The above picture could be almost anywhere USA.

The fact remains that just a few hudred feet away was a place that we could not easily walk to given the design of the sidewalk system. You’d think, in the richest country in the world, we could figure out how to build more hospitable environments. Actually we have, the interior of a Hummer seems quite comfortable if you can afford to buy one and the gas to drive it. However, I need to walk more and I enjoy walking (when it isn’t too hot or humid, at least). Why must we accept places which are so inconvenient to pedestrians and cyclists yet overly convenient to motorists? Can we not learn how to strike a balance? Ok, enough on that rant, back to Topeka.

So driving from Topeka’s suburban hell toward downtown we passed an older suburban shopping center “anchored” by a Walgreen’s. This view is actually from near the street corner — a major intersection. They left “open space” at the corner — very useless and unappreciated space — and turned the Walgreen’s store toward a massive parking lot and other fake Colonial architecture. Luckily, things got much better as we continued to drive east into the older parts of town.

While not fancy we did pass some interesting architecture. I love the 2nd floor porch on the single family home (left) and the very Kansas City like balaconies of the 6-family building on the right.

As we approached downtown we saw yet another Walgreen’s store. More grass and asphalt “open space” here. You can see a bus shelter near the street but I think patrons must walk through the grass to get to it (although I am not too certain in this example but you get the point). Again, we can’t really bother cities to make sure sidewalks connect to places people actually walk to and from.

We finally make it downtown and the stunning Kansas State Capital building is on our left. But, as the passenger in a minivan without a sunroof I really can’t appreciate it. Later, when on foot, I will get to see the wonderful building. In the meantime, out the window of the van I get a shot of the horrific state building across the street. I’m sure the artist rendering for this thing made it look so much more welcoming than reality. Also, I got three shots of this building and none show a bus stop sign but I presume that is the reason for the bench. Otherwise, I can’t imagine someone wanting to sit in this spot next to a four-lane road.

This gem of a place was spotted on the other side of downtown. The building is marked as “Townsite Plaza” but parking warrants the same size & style lettering. Later in the day, when I was out walking, I got a glimpse of the other side of the plaza, it is slightly better. I will show that later. But first, more of this same redeveloped area.

This is a building just a block north of the Townsite Plaza. The road we were on for the previous picture had been cut off for progress so we had to go out of our way and see this building and all its glory. One more and then I will move on to something better, I promise.

So here we are on the other end of the street that had been cut off. To the right is the ugly red brick building from the previous picture and in the middle left you can see the top of the Townsite Plaza. In the background is a really ugly tower (Bank of America) which will get attention later in this post as well. Like so many of these types of places, the grounds are spotless, the grass is perfectly cut and weed free but it simply meant to be appreciated by car — not by foot. Even by car it is really horrible unless maybe you are driving 45mph or so.

We had a few minutes before Rich had to get to the place where he was inspecting a roof so we attempted to find Topeka’s riverfont. The Topeka inset on the Kansas State Map showed the river just to the north of downtown. We turned on the last street we could, Crane St, and found not the river (although we could see the levee) but an old industrial area with plenty of rail service. Among the wonderfully honest buildings in the industrial section was the old stone structure shown above. The windows are not boarded, those are original steel shutters! Ignoring the no trespassing signs, we got out and walked around this building which, as they were in those days, beautiful from all sides. Today’s buildings are designed to be seen from the main road only , or highway if present.

The area around this building was an industrial wasteland, likely highly contaminated. The Bank of America tower from downtown can be seen in the horizon to give you an idea of proximity. I learned later Tokepa does have a riverfront park but we never saw it in person.

Of course, a massive road project cuts through this interesting industrial area. Maybe in 50 years someone will appreciate the simple forms of this road project but not this blogger. Ready to see downtown? If so, take a deep breath because there is a lot to share.

Rich dropped me off at 4th and Kansas Ave (their main street). Here is a map link if you want to follow along.

So I was just dropped off on the edge of the main drag and looking NW all I could see up close was the sad parking lot with an interesting church beyond. I knew I wanted to explore the downtown Topeka streetscape so I accepted that I would not get to see the church and what looked to be an interesting older, and likely poor, neighborhood.

Looking ahead I could see the start of something interesting. I took note of the pro-life billboards and decided to proceed anyway. Given the angle of the sun and the heat I decided to cross the street to be in the shade and to avoid attempting to shoot pictures into the sun. I noticed a mid-block crossing ahead so I walked a bit further south.

Here we can see the start of a downtown main street (Kansas Ave). In the center of the image in what was a parking lane the curb has been pushed out to narrow the road bed and to shorten the pedestrian crossing distance. Also, signs are placed so that drivers are alerted to the possibility of these strange people known as pedestrians. Drivers were courteous and stopped for me each time I crossed the road. A few times I was simply trying to get photos from the middle of the street and I had to wave at them to signal they could continue. Had I encountered other pedestrians I am sure they would have been as nice.

Looking across the street we can see how the planters in the middle create a resting spot for pedestrians crossing the street and how a sidewalk continues on the other side of the street. Overall, very well done.

From the mid-crossing point you can get a good overview of the street I was about to explore. The planters look a bit dated and as you can see, mostly empty.

Once across the street I looked back and the view was not so nice in this direction. Hopefully a future building will be built on the site of the surface parking lot with an entrance centered on this walkway. Maybe a new facility for Planned Parenthood?

Crossing the next street I encounter the unfriendly face of a parking garage. Major corners in downtowns deserve better treatment than this.

I continue forward but it only gets worse. The multi-color pavers are supposed to make me feel better about my pedestrian experience but it doesn’t help.

I get past the garage to the end of the Bank of America Tower — from the sidewalk level they look the same. Oh look, a bench…

And here is the view from the bench. If someone were using the night deposit or passing by on the sidewalk it would add some interest to an otherwise dull landscape. Unimpressed with the view from the bench I took a left up ahead at 6th Ave.

Making my way around the side of the Bank of America Tower I reach the front of the Townsite Plaza. You can tell it is a plaza but all the paving and lack of greenery save for the token tree in the pot. Straight ahead is where Quincy St used to continue through to 5th Street where we were earlier. On one had I want to see just how tragically “designed” this plaza really is but I just can’t take it.

Looking back from where I had been I can see how planters from the Townsite Plaza thrust themselves into the sidewalk area. This is not a pleasant intrusion as the architect likely hoped. The conical conifer is of little help. I decide to cross 6th so that I can return to Kansas Ave.

So much has been strapped to this pole yet the one thing I need, a button to activate the pedestrian signal.

A quick look back after crossing, just to make sure I did not miss something interesting. Nope!

Ahead, on 6th Ave, was actual signs of life. A luggage store (as observed by the large ‘luggage’ in neon) was having a sidewalk sale — clerks were pushing out merchandise as I walked by. People were arriving and shopping. I could overhear people talking as I walked by. For a mere moment along 25ft of sidewalk I experience life in downtown Topeka. It was glorious despite the paving being plain concrete and not two-tone brick pavers.

I arrived back at the corner of 6th and Kansas Ave still high from the sidewalk activity of the luggage store and looking back north it was like Nancy Reagan slapping me into reality. Just say no to bustling sidewalks. Quick, look away.

I turn to the left and it gets worse. Is that pink mirrored glass?

Quickly I turn and look behind me thinking I need to press on along Kansas Ave. Yikes, another bad corner building.

Suddenly in am surrounded by greenery, a pleasant relief from all the solid walls of the past intersection. Still, this is a main street I wonder to myself yet the building on my left is set back from the sidewalk. A four sided bench looks a bit sad. I’d be curious to observe who would sit here, when and on which side.

Curiosity got the better of me on this one, I just had to follow the sidewalk.

Wow, what a let down once I ‘arrived.’ But wait, I see a sign for a “pedestrian plaza” with a graphic of family-friendly people of various sizes, that must be interesting!

Well the “pedestrian plaza” is nothing more than an open hallway leading to the alley and the parking garage on the other side of the alley.

I make my way back to Kansas Ave to continue the main street tour and, surprisingly, this parking lot where a building had used to be doesn’t really shock or depress me. It almost seems expected at this point in my walking tour.

I look across the street to give my eyes and brain a rest from the visual assault that I had been experiencing. Oh what a relief; varied architecture with detailing, colors, windows and an interesting sign atop a tall building in the background. Something to look forward too.

Back to reality. Oh look, baby blue that was likely popular in whatever year this building was built or reskinned.

The fountain in the lobby doesn’t help.

Neither does this drive-thru from the main street to the back.

A decade later some architect thought this building next door would make a positive contribution. I’m not sure who’s idea the anchor was.

A mid-block crossing! Oh, a missing building with a new parking garage behind it.

I’m now approaching 8th and wondering how many of the tired old ‘platform with offset tower’ buildings this downtown has. Also, seeing the name Westar Energy I am now thinking of the TV series Dallas as Westar was a big rival of Ewing Oil.

Halfway through crossing 8th I turn to my right to look westbound on 8th. Yet another platform with tower. They are everywhere! We’ll come back to the new parking garage seen in the far right.

I keep walking but spot something out of the corner of my eyes, above the second floor.

Wow, time and temperature! Public clocks are a lost art so it is refreshing to see these, even though I had to step back from the main line of the sidewalk and really twist my neck. David Sucher would be pleased.

I went from the public clock to the public ashtray. The brick pavers do a nice job of drawing attention to the butts.

Another inviting mid-block crossing. I later learned this was most recently a Walgreens.

Finally, an interesting building on the corner. Although, someone has worked really hard to make it less interesting. Even so, it is miles ahead of some of the prior corner buildings I had seen. For those of you keeping track on a map, this is 9th.

9th street beautifully terminates in the side of the capital building. Although drawn to the capital I continue my march along Kansas Ave.

Up ahead is another drive-thru. I’m not sure which is more depressing.

Here I am, between 9th and 10th streets and I finally spot some bicycle parking! Remember that I started back by 4th street. This form of bike parking is a favorite of architects due to its senuious form. This model, properly installed and properly used, can hold nine bicycles. Bikes are to be placed alternating from opposites sides for seven plus, if necessary, another on each end. However, nobody is going to trapse through the ‘planter’ to use this side of the rack. Given the lack of things to do, it is doubtful anyone is going to use the rack at all.

The little shack has been used for posting flyers although it is clear the downtown group has been working to keep them free of flyers. The street has 4-6 of these. The opposite side looks like it had a pay phone at one time, now it just a recess where a phone once existed.

Now I can hear Etta James, “At Last.” A building at a mid-block crossing that is actually compelling.

Now I am at 10th street, basically the end of the main street portion of Kansas Ave. I’m standing at the crosswalk so I can examine the other side of Kansas Ave but where is the button to give me the walk signal? Oh there it is, over by 10th street. Note the anonymous building on the corner at 10th.

As I cross Kansas Ave, I look back north to see where I had been on the right side of the street and where I’ll be headed on the left. Somehow it doesn’t look so bad from this perspective. Perhaps Topeka is best seen by car?

The shade of the trees is quite welcomed as I approach another of the former pay phone shacks that can’t dare have any flyers on it promoting something like local rock bands for means of free thinking. What would visitors think?

I’m back at 9th now with the Capital building to my left. Straight ahead, however, is a dolled-up parking garage.

Out in front is an interesting piece of public art. Not exactly the best place to appreciate it but it was interesting nevertheless.

On the door to the building/parking garage I learn about an event taking place that very night, Cruise Night. This 1,800+ vehicle show will take place after 5pm “in Beautiful Downtown Topeka.” You’d think they would have, I dunno, planted some freaken flowers in the medians! Parking for the event will be free, of course, including in the 9th Street garage where I am standing. Do you think Topeka tore down a building on the National Register of Historic Places for their 9th street garage? If so, Schnuck’s might just want to open a store in downtown Topeka.

The view back across at the Westar Energy building.

Back at 8th Street this new parking garage is just sticking out like a sore thumb. The red brick infill between the concrete and the decorative green railings is supposed to, presumably, make it blend in. In reality, these sorry attempts at contextualism make it stand out even more.

I actually loved this little storefront, probably once a jewelry store. Mirrored glass, in small doses, can be interesting.

At 7th is a nice old bank building with a public clock at a height easily read. Granted, this sign and digital clock are not very impressive as signs go but at least it is a relief from blocks and blocks lacking projecting signs. One man’s clutter is another’s visual interest. Note the spikes to keep the homeless, or anyone, from sitting in front of the bank.

A person using a walker just got into a waiting vehicle. A reminder that we do need to plan for all pedetrians, even those who sometimes need a little help.

A person using a wheelchair or mobility scooter would be unable to use this bus shelter to get out of the rain.

I’m sitting in front of a Schlotzsky’s drinking a bottle of water and a couple of teenagers go by on skateboards. They sorta had this look of “don’t turn is in for skate boarding downtown.” I was glad to see someone, anyone, out and about.

The only real sign of an event coming up in about six hours are the barriers ready for closing the street and the porta potties you’ve seen in a few images.

Nearing the end of the downtown section (I’m at 6th) I cannot bring myself to walk any closer to this building. I turn to my left and head west.

On 6th I stumble upon Lloyd Zimmer Books & Maps. Great store! I spent quite a bit of time there, purchasing a number of interesting post cards and one book. The book will be the subject of its own future blog post.

Earlier in the morning when Rich and I were driving around, we went down Jackson Street — a one-way arterial just a block west of Kansas Ave. This street, like the last, looked to be another interesting case study. This street was once very wide. To solve this problem, planners & engineers narrowed the road (aka road diet) by planting a sliver of nature on one half. Up ahead, looking south, are more parking garages, some interesting buildings, the capital dome peaking out and to my immediate right, a big ugly suface parking lot. I’m sure one day, as Topeka prospers, that parking lot will get a parking garage.

The other direction? Another surface parking lot and another parking garage. Those seeking to pack in so many cars Monday-Friday during the work week have managed to do a great job of killing the appeal of downtown at any other time.

Every so often the designers of the green streetscape interjected a different paving section to keep things, uh, interesting. I have to admit that I liked the streetscape much better than I thought I would as we drove down the one-way street in the minivan. It always helps to experience a place on foot (well, it helps form a more accurate impression at least).

I’m still trying to figure out exactly who it is that is going to sit on this bench with a parking garage behind them and in front of them. Maybe once the Black Eyed Susans are blooming?

The sidewalk across 8th is closed so I decide to cross Jackson St. The capital building is part of the block ahead on the right.

I get to the crosswalk for Jackson St and look back to see the button for the crossing signal. I think I crossed without a signal, there was no traffic.

The buildings on the right (back to the north along Jackson St) are some of the more interesting I’ve seen in Topeka.

A few buildings on 8th between Jackson St. & Kansas Ave were also interesting despite (or because of?) the new parking garage shown at right.

Back at Jackson & 8th, on the edge of the capital grounds, are a few accessible parking spaces (among the broken paving) and in a tiny left-over wedge, “Motorcycle Moped Parking Only.” Wow, that was unexpected! What a pleasant surprise.

Rich was now done with his work and returning downtown to pick me up. I want to return to Topeka to check out how the downtown behaves during the work week, to see how, if at all, residential neigborhoods relate to downtown, to find that elusive riverfront park and finally to see what North Topeka, just across the river, is like. Maybe after this review the Topeka Chamber of Commerce will invite to share more of my thoughts on their city?

If you somehow didn’t get enough of Topeka check all of the nearly 450 images of Topeka I posted on Flickr.  You can read more at wiki.