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Undoing a huge mistake from the 1980s

ABOVE: St. Louis Centre bridge over Washington Ave
ABOVE: St. Louis Centre bridge over Washington Ave connecting to the former Dillard's (right)

At 5:10pm Today a wrecking ball will take a swing at the 4-story pedestrian bridge over Washington Ave.  The bridge, and it’s twin across Locust St, were certainly a mistake but the real mistake was the construction of an indoor mall downtown.  The grand scheme to revitalize downtown by razing an entire city block between two large department stores to make a massive 3-block indoor shopping mecca was so amazingly flawed. The large blank walls of the pedestrian bridges  distract from an entire city block razed and the land assembled into a monolithic mall.

“St. Louis Centre, built in 1985 for $95 million, was once the largest enclosed urban shopping center in the country with 120 stores and a food court with 20 restaurants. The mall has deteriorated in recent years and now only a handful of stores remain.” [St. Louis Business Journal 2007]

“In April 1981, [Mayor] Schoemehl hit the office running. He continued the work begun by his predecessor, Jim Conway, on the St. Louis Centre shopping mall downtown and pushed to completion the long-discussed St. Louis Union Station renovation.” [St. Louis Post-Dispatch 11/1/1992]

Some would say the city was just responding to the market, that retailers wanted to be in indoor malls so we had to build an indoor mall to attract those retailers.  I don’t believe in chasing every trend in suburbia (malls, houses with front garages, etc) to attract that market.  I believe in working toward the best urban public streets and spaces as possible and people will follow and the retailers will follow the people.

ABOVE: St. Louis Centre bridge over Locust connecting to Macys
ABOVE: St. Louis Centre bridge over Locust connecting to Macy's (right)

Older urban centers can’t  — and shouldn’t — try to compete with new suburban areas on their terms — large parking lots, huge setbacks, etc.  No, the urban core needs to provide an urban experience.  Suburbia can build all the New Urbanist developments on greenfield sites or even retrofit a “downtown” into an once auto-centric suburb but they can never offer what an older core has to offer.  The core tossing aside what makes it unique to capture a suburban audience is just foolish.

But St. Louis and nearly every other city in America did just that — ignored existing urbanism to chase the suburbanite.  So we can take comfort knowing we were not alone — other cities were just as stupid as we were.

U.S. Bank is sponsoring a big street party tonight as the wrecking ball hits the bridge.  The event is timed for live coverage on the local TV news.  The bridge will take 3 weeks to remove so don’t expect to see down Washington Ave Saturday morning.

ABOVE: West side of St. Louis Centre bridge over Washington Ave
ABOVE: West side of St. Louis Centre bridge over Washington Ave

But what about the rest of the shuttered mall? Retail will finally face the direction it always should have — the sidewalk.

“When considering the future of vacant and underused space downtown, it is important to consider what I believe to be certain realities. Among these are the following: …. (2) Given the presence of world-class shopping at St. Louis Centre and Union Station, we cannot hope to fill all of the ground floor space downtown with retail shops.”

– Richard Ward in the St. Louis Post-Dispatch March 30, 1989

How times have changed!  The spaces are not full and it will be many years before they are full but building the “largest enclosed urban shopping center in the country” set us back at least a decade if not more.

The upper levels of the mall will be occupied as well — by parked cars, not people.  750 cars I believe! These spaces will help keep some firms located downtown but we really must get a handle on our supply and demand of parking.  To me our allowance of parking spaces is excessive except where it is really needed — on the street in front of sidewalk-level storefronts and restaurants. Those going to work for 8 hours shouldn’t park on the street just as those just hanging out downtown should be able to park on the street near their destination.  Arriving at a street with zero on-street says “good luck parking” whereas arriving at a street with on-street parking spaces — even if full — says “this is a popular area.”

ABOVE: Parking garage across 6th Street from St. Louis Centre
ABOVE: Parking garage across 6th Street from St. Louis Centre
ABOVE: former street-level retail space in use for more parking!
ABOVE: former street-level retail space in use for more parking!

I’m glad we are finally at this point but we still have a long way to go to undo the many mistakes made over the last few decades. The “Bridge Bash” will be held on Washington Ave (7th-9th Streets) from 4pm to 7pm tonight.

– Steve Patterson

 

Bellefontaine Cemetery dedicated 160 years ago today

On May 15, 1850 the city’s newest cemetery was dedicated (per St. Louis Day By Day by Frances Hurd Stadler):

The story of Bellefontaine Cemetery, a non-sectarian, perpetual care cemetery, begins with the year 1849, when many prominent citizens of St. Louis, who had the welfare of the City at heart, recognized that the old cemeteries located along Jefferson Avenue would soon have to be abandoned, since they were directly in the path of the City’s westward growth. (source)

This cemetery is one of the most beautiful and fascinating places in the city.  If you haven’t been I suggest you plan to do so, it is located at 4947 West Florissant Ave.

Notable Bellefontaine burials from Wikipedia:

  • Thomas Hart Benton (1782-1858), U.S. Senator
  • Kate Chopin (1850-1904)Famous American Author
  • Henry Taylor Blow (1817-1875), politician, statesman
  • Susan Blow (1843-1916), educator
  • Francis E. Brownell (1840-1894), soldier during the American Civil War, Medal of Honor recipient
  • Don Carlos Buell (1818-1898), American Civil War general (Union)
  • William Seward Burroughs (1857-1898), inventor
  • William S. Burroughs (1914-1997), author
  • Adolphus Busch (1838-1913), brewing magnate
  • Robert Campbell (1804-1879), frontiersman, banker, real estate mogul, steamboat owner
  • William Chauvenet (1820-1870), scholar, educator
  • Martin L. Clardy (1844-1914), U.S. Representative
  • William Clark (1770-1838), explorer
  • Charles B. Clarke (1836-1899), prominent architect, designer of the Fagin Building (1888)
  • Nathan Cole (1825-1904), U.S. Representative and Mayor of St. Louis
  • Alban Jasper Conant (1821-1915), artist, author, educator
  • Phoebe Wilson Couzins (1842-1913), pioneer suffragette
  • Ned Cuthbert (1845-1905), baseball player
  • James Eads (1820-1887), engineer and inventor
  • Aaron W. Fagin (1812-1896), milling magnate, millionaire, and builder of the Fagin Building (1888)
  • Gustavus A. Finkelnburg (1837-1908), U.S. Representative and Federal Judge
  • Della May Fox (1870-1913), actress, singer
  • David R. Francis (1850-1927), statesman, United States Secretary of the Interior
  • Frederick D. Gardner (1869-1933), governor of Missouri and St. Louis funeral director and coffin manufacturer
  • Jessie L. Gaynor (1863-1921), composer of children’s music
  • Henry S. Geyer (1790-1859), U.S. Senator, lawyer
  • James Eads How (1874-1930), son of wealthy St. Louis family, known as the “Millionaire Hobo”
  • Benjamin Howard (1760-1814), first governor of Missouri Territory
  • Anthony F. Ittner (1837-1931), Missouri politician, brick manufacturer
  • Caroline Janis (1864-1952), painter and sculptor, member of “The Potters”
  • Albert Bond Lambert (1875-1946), aviator
  • John Edmund Liggett (1826-1897), owner of Liggett and Myers Tobacco Company, South St. Louis
  • Theodore Link (1850-1923), architect of St. Louis Union Station
  • Naphtali Luccock (1853-1916), a Bishop of the Methodist Episcopal Church
  • James Smith McDonnell (1899-1980), founder of McDonnell Aircraft Corporation
  • John McNeil, Civil War general (Union)
  • Charles Nagel (1849-1940), last United States Secretary of Commerce and Labor, lawyer
  • Trusten Polk (1811-1876), elected both governor and U.S. senator in 1856
  • Sterling Price (1809-1867), American Civil War general (Confederate)
  • Mary Marshall Rexford (1915-1996), Red Cross worker and the first woman to land on Utah Beach on D-Day
  • James McIlvaine Riley (1849-1911), Co-founder of Sigma Nu International Fraternity
  • Irma S. Rombauer (1877-1962), author of The Joy of Cooking
  • James Semple (1798-1866), Illinois state senator
  • Henry Miller Shreve (1785-1851), inventor
  • Luther Ely Smith (1873-1951), founder of Jefferson National Expansion Memorial
  • Theodore Spiering (1871-1925), violinist, conductor, and teacher
  • Edwin O. Stanard (1832-1914), Lieutenant Governor of Missouri and U.S. Representative
  • George Strother (1783-1840), Virginia congressman and lawyer, collector of public money in St. Louis (reinterment)
  • Sara Teasdale (1884-1933), Pulitzer Prize-winning poet
  • Charlotte Dickson Wainwright, within architect Louis Sullivan’s 1892 Wainwright Tomb
  • Erastus Wells (1823-1893), U.S. Representative and businessman

Impressive!  Interestingly a few hours before I had a massive stroke on 2/1/2008 I called Bellefontaine for information on plots.  The information arrived in my mail just days later while I was sedated in ICU.  I’ve since decided on cremation.

– Steve Patterson

 

Sidewalk collapsing into vault on 8th Street

Many of the buildings downtown have vaults under the public sidewalks.  These are spaces that extend the basement past the exterior wall to fill the space under the sidewalks, but the sidewalk can show signs of stress.

Such is the case of the sidewalk on the west side of 8th Street between Olive and Chestnut Pine, adjacent to the vacant Arcade Building..  The sidewalk has reached a point where it needs to be addressed so that it doesn’t collapse as someone walks across it.

– Steve Patterson

 

Aloe Plaza dedicated 70 years ago today

ABOVE: ?
ABOVE: The sculpture 'Meeting of the Waters' by Carl Milles located in the center of Aloe Plaza

Saturday May 11, 1940 the public plaza known as “Aloe Plaza” was dedicated – seventy years ago today.The population in 1940 was 816,048, more than double our current population.

Located across Market St from Union Station, Aloe Plaza, has a long history:

The central corridor of St. Louis, from Tucker Boulevard (formerly Twelfth Street) on the east to Grand Boulevard on the west, was densely populated at the turn of the twentieth century. The area was a mixture of mansions and tenements, shops of all kinds, businesses, factories, dance halls, taverns, clubs, restaurants, churches, schools and other institutions.

Civic Improvement League, organized in 1901, called for razing the area to create a central parkway. The 1920s saw the clearing out of a portion of the area with the creation of the Soldiers Memorial and Plaza, Kiel Auditorium, the widening of Market Street and the construction of the Aloe Plaza opposite Union Station.

Development of the Aloe Plaza was made possible by an $87 million bond issue in 1923. The funds were used for widening Olive Street and the clearance and development of land for several plazas in the area bounded by Market, Chestnut, 12th and 20th Streets.

Aloe Plaza was named in honor of Louis P. Aloe, who died in 1929. He served as President of the Board of Alderman from 1916 to 1923 and led the movement for passage of the bond issue.

In 1909 the two block area that would become Aloe Plaza contained many buildings, including seven hotels:

ABOVE:
ABOVE: 1909 Sanborn Map. Source: Univ of MO Digital Library

The story of why the Civic Improvement League targeted this area for redevelopment is fascinating and unknown to me until yesterday.  A shooting in St. Louis led to the song Frankie and Johnny and several movies.  Here is the history as told on the Wikipedia entry for the song:

It has been suggested that the song was inspired, or its details influenced, by one or more actual murders. One of these took place in St. Louis, Missouri, on October 15, 1899, when Frankie Baker, a 22-year-old dancer, stabbed (or shot) her 17-year-old lover Allen “Al” Britt, who was having a relationship with a woman named Alice Pryor. Britt died of his wounds two days later. On trial, Baker claimed that Britt had attacked her with a knife and that she acted in self-defense; she was acquitted and died in a Portland, Oregon mental institution in 1952.

The shooting took place at a boarding house on a street the ran perpendicular to Market St between 14th & 15th.  This street was later eliminated from the grid for the construction of the Kiel Opera House, which opened in 1934.  To the west at 18th you had Union Station which had opened just 5 years prior to the shooting in 1894.  Visitors arrived in St. Louis via train but civic leaders didn’t like the elements that surrounded the station.  Reasons given was the area was rundown and dangerous — I think it was because the area was predominantly black.  At a time when segregation was the norm, St. Louis didn’t want to welcome visitors to the black part of town.  Keep in mind the new train station was far west when built.

The song was a huge hit with many variations and led to films in 1936, 1966 and 1991.  Here is the trailer to the 1966 film starring Elvis Presley:

httpv://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6IDmVrECDi4

The actual people involved in the 1899 shooting were black, not white.

ABOVE:
ABOVE: The sculpture 'Meeting of the Waters' by Carl Milles located in the center of Aloe Plaza

The city’s 1947 Master Plan indicates “The Aloe Plaza and Milles Fountain make a distinguished gateway to the city.” The cost listed was $2,600,000.  The sculpture and fountain by Milles was controversial at the time:

The fountain, originally named “The Wedding of the Rivers,” depicts the union of the Missouri and the Mississippi Rivers, represented by the two central figures. Accompanying the two main figures and forming a wedding procession are 17 water spirits, symbolic of the smaller streams that empty into the two major rivers.

An uproar arose over the nudity of the male figure, representing the Mississippi River and the female figure, the Missouri River. In deference to the criticism, the name of the fountain was changed to ,”The Meeting of the Waters.”

I think we should restore the name to “The Wedding of the Rivers” as originally intended by Miles.

ABOVE: St. Louis Union Station as seen from Aloe Plaza
ABOVE: St. Louis Union Station as seen from Aloe Plaza

Note that when Aloe Plaza was dedicated 70 years ago the buildings along the riverfront were just being razed.  The competition that gave us the Arch wasn’t held until 7 years later.  Clearly the city was busy razing buildings in many areas.  Despite my issues with the bad planning and reactionary policies that got us to today, the sculpture and fountain in Aloe Plaza always make me smile.

– Steve Patterson

 

Sportsman’s Park closed 44 years ago today

ABOVE: Sportsmans Park in St. Louis
ABOVE: Sportsman's Park in St. Louis. Image: Wikipedia

Sportsman’s Park closed on May 8th, 1966.

From 1920-1953, Sportsman’s Park was the home field of both the St. Louis Browns of the American League, and the St. Louis Cardinals of the National League, after which the Browns departed to become the modern-day Baltimore Orioles. The physical street address was 2911 North Grand Boulevard. St. Louis is the smallest market ever to support two major-league teams in the same sport at the same time and the second smallest city next to Boston to do so.

This ballpark (by then known as Busch Stadium, but still commonly called Sportsman’s Park) was also the home of the St. Louis Cardinals of the National Football League from 1960 until 1965, after the team’s relocation from Chicago and before Busch Memorial Stadium opened its doors. In 1923, the stadium hosted St. Louis’s first NFL team, the St. Louis All Stars.

In 1966 Busch Stadium II opened downtown in what had been our China Town area.  That stadium was replaced with Busch Stadium III in 2006.  Sportsman’s Park, opened in 1902, is now the site of the Herbert Hoover Boys & Girls Club.  I can’t help what wonder what the neighborhood at Grand & Dodier would look like today had the Cardinals remained at that corner. Similarly, I wonder what that portion of downtown would be like had many blocks not been razed the vast urban renewal scheme.

– Steve Patterson

 

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