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Ten Things I Love About St. Louis, and Ten Reasons Why I Left:

February 28, 2008 Downtown, Guest, STL Region 78 Comments

Editor’s Note: While Steve Patterson is recovering from his stroke, Urban Review St. Louis will present guest essays from a variety of perspectives. Discuss. Enjoy. Argue. Disagree. Stick around!

Guest Editorial by Margie Newman

Margie Headshot 1

I love St. Louis, even though I chose to leave it. Random reasons:

Things I Love About St. Louis …

  1. The amazing architecture–at least the structures that haven’t been demolished for parking lots. Ahem.
  2. The Arch. How did that happen? In St. Louis? Really!
  3. People like Steve Patterson, Michael Allen, Antonio French, Marcia Behrendt and Roger Plackemeier, who’ve put themselves on the line to stand up for this place.
  4. Forest Park. Man, I miss that park.
  5. The North Side. I spent my earliest years in Walnut Park, and I have a deep, abiding, regret-filled love for that part of the city. The brick architecture, the density, the trees, the corner stores. The real feeling of neighborhood.
  6. Washington Avenue’s renaissance. But see below for the flip side of that coin …
  7. The neighborhoods, in roughly this order: Downtown, the Hill, South Grand/Tower Grove, Soulard, Lafayette Square, CWE, the U City and St. Louis sides of the Loop, midtown.
  8. The water towers. Weird and wonderful.
  9. Calvary and Bellefontaine cemeteries. Almost as much as Forest Park.
  10. The art freaks. Even when they’re bellyaching.

But I Left St. Louis Because …

  1. I’m 45, and while the city is getting better, St. Louis isn’t going to become enough city for me in my lifetime–at least not during the part of my lifetime in which I’m continent and ambulatory.
  2. My industry isn’t happening or growing in St. Louis on the scale it is elsewhere, and pay rates for my work are less than half of what they are in Chicago (where I live now). Sad, but a fact.
  3. I spent too much time in St. Louis convincing people, especially “leaders,” that the earth is round. If they hadn’t seen it with their own eyes, they couldn’t imagine it might work here. It’d help if they left town now and then, or listened to experts who came here to share lessons from the outside world (cf. Rollin Stanley).
  4. There was work to do downtown, and not enough of us to do it. I admit: I burned out.
  5. The people who run/ran Downtown St. Louis, the Partnership, and other “civic progress” groups are largely invested in NOT changing things. The old regime is fully entrenched, protecting its piece of the ever-shrinking pie.
  6. Alright, you all knew this was coming, but … the Century Building fiasco. It proves (and taught me) the intractability of reason #5. I still find it unbelievable that it all went down like it did.
  7. Washington Avenue. Yep, it’s cool. But what the hell? Why so much investment focused on and limited to ONE street? Turn north or south at 14th Street, and it feels like you’ve suddenly left Disney’s Main St.
  8. Empty promises. Drive around downtown and ask yourself: weren’t they supposed to re-time these lights? Wasn’t there an article about wi-fi being installed all over downtown … like four YEARS ago?
  9. Violations of the street grid, such as amputating St. Charles Street block by block. Drive down 4th Street and weep.
  10. The unsettling feeling that no one’s minding the store. So many basic things untended. Examples; crumbling infrastructure, inadequate police patrols/traffic control, the sheer number of people running stop signs (and I mean RUNNING them) in mid-town. But hey, check out Ballpark Village! Oh, wait …

I love St. Louis. I miss St. Louis. But I can’t say that I will ever come back other than to visit. Not soon, for sure. But I applaud all y’all for hanging in there and fighting for what we all know St. Louis can be. In a younger person’s lifetime, at least.

  • James

    Well, I was kind of joking, but that is exactly true. The mission was fine when we were single or just married and in our twenties (or early 30′s.)

    As someone whose child is about to start school I feel absolutely justified in saying that the school district appears to be doing everything it can to force us to move. We’re planning on staying put and making sacrifices to do so, but it has been difficult.

  • Northside Neighbor

    If this were Chicago, you could put your child in one of the “largest non-public school systems in the country”.

    St. Louis gives you the same option. Or you can give it all up and move to St. Charles or Jefferson County for a decent public school.

    People in Chicago probably have the same option. People choose urban Chicago and private education every day, just as St. Louisans do.

    Hell, move to Chicago to an area with decent public schools if you want. Just quit complaining about St. Louis!

  • Margie

    Re. Walnut Park cred: I went to Mark Twain (SLPS) on Ruskin and then St. Philip Neri (now defunct) on Thekla. I walked Calvary for fun WAY before it was cool to do so (think 1968). My dad spent his childhood in Walnut Park and lived in the same bungalow where we did when I was a kid. (He moved there from Kerry Patch in the 1920s.) So yeah, I have reason to love the North Side. You may now proceed with your tirade against my yuppie ways.

  • Northside Neighbor

    The white population in lots of North City didn’t start emptying out until the late sixties and early seventies. So there’s lots of white people in their 40s and 50s today who grew up on the north side. North County and St. Charles is full of them. Just like South County and Jefferson County are full of former Southsiders. No difference. Lots of people have a connection to St. Louis. It’s a part of our charm. It’s no wonder they call this place a “big small town”. It is. I doubt Chicago can claim that distinction.

  • http://www.stlua.blogspot.com Douglas Duckworth

    ^That’s why I partly blame the situation of the North Side on those who left. Well, those people, the Federal Government, and Real Estate and Banking Industries that profited greatly from suburbanization.

    St. Louis, no doubt, has a lot of issues to overcome. However, this makes it a great City for people who want to fix them. I like Chicago a lot for many reasons. Due to geography, it’s great for a weekend, or longer, visit. But it’s also extremely expensive. In St. Louis, for a significantly lower price, one may own a condo, loft, or house. Renting is a lot more affordable as well. This makes St. Louis a good investment, as I believe we will eventually see increasing demand for housing.

    The biggest problem is our political “lack of leadership.” However the solution to this problem is to change leadership then the system under which they operate. But the institutions and political culture, thus rules!, of this City are entrenched against change and have been so for decades. Change then, of course, requires a necessary accumulation of people who want to invest their time and energy for such a change. Such an effort would be well beyond something like an Aldermanic or Mayoral Recall. Unfortunately, as long as we continue to lose young educated people, those well suited for sustained reform, such an outcome becomes less likely, or at least severely delayed.

    We need to resist the inclination to pack bags and leave. But it’s not hard to understand why this individual decision seems attractive and rational. Yet when a collective group picks up and leaves, the City suffers as it lacks the social capital required for progress or mere sustainability! In effect the same flight that created the initial problems is propagated.

  • northside neighbor

    Blaming a lack of leadership for a reason to dislike one’s hometown rings pretty flat. We’re making this place together. We don’t need others to “lead” us. Besides, how is that “creative”?

  • thoughts from south grand

    st louis is not chicago

    st louis does not want to be chicago

    st louis is a small town, chicago is a big city

    if for some reason i wanted to move to chicago, i would instead first move to phoenix, atlanta, sacramento, seattle, san fran, minneapolis, Albuquerque, la, vegas, Baltimore, dc, phili, but chicago,

    bunch of pasty white people freezing while they watch a crappy baseball team?

    Chicago? For real ?

  • Mike F.

    I have to laugh hard at the above “attacks” of Margie’s urban persona. Yuppie? She is not young…lol She is however the most urban and dedicated downtown STL spokespersona we have ever had. She was here fighting the fight and living the life long before most of us down here. She made some great points. Don’t attack. Discuss and formulate ways to deal with the issues our city faces. We are the biggest small town in the midwest. We have illusions of being a big city, and we do have some of the perks of a mid-level city, but we are what we are. Let’s work to make it better, let’s get some 30-40 year olds up to the table to talk toe to toe with the powers that be. Let’s nurture some of the 20 somethings into the future powers of the city. Change is good, criticism fosters change, and discussion is the seedling of possible changes. None of us are going to see sweeping changes in our lifetime, but let’s all lay a foundation for a new city for our kids. (Wow, I have been watching to many Obama speeches apparently) Spend your money in your neighborhood. Frequent the cities small businesses. Make every neighborhood a small downtown of its own. Without the small businesses, development will stall. Margie was one of the “get it” people in the city. She is missed. But there are many people here who can effect the same momentum. The city is great and unique. Let’s just be ourselves and encourage our neighborhoods to continue the developments we have seen.

  • John

    I am disappointed to see the attacks on this woman.
    Margie, I’m sorry you left. Chicago is a fantastic place, has some of the same dynamics that we do here in STL, but for a number of reasons we can never be Chicago. Each city can learn from each other.
    This blog just shows that the 130 year old inferiority complex that we have as St. Louisiand in regards to Chicago is still intact. It’s not very productive and we need to get over it.

  • Brad

    Honestly, the fewer privileged white yuppies we have here, the better. Whoever said that St. Louis is the most racist city in the country is absolutely correct (although, Milwaukee could be considered.). Atlanta is nowhere close. St. Louis is divided on an existential level.

    The solution isn’t “doing something” about Meacham Park or North City or Kinloch. The solution is having less stereotypical white people. New York and San Francisco and Chicago have plenty over-moneyed white folks who are too consumed with their own ambition to truly care about anything or anyone else. St. Louis can’t compete. The talk about the “creative class?” Gawd. I make my living as a creative. I take it seriously. But when I read that statement, one thing’s clear: it refers to white, college-educated individuals.

    That’s a homogenous population and one of the worst offenders in the class divide that’s killing this country (NB: being white and college-educated doesn’t mean that you’re bad. It’s just that those folks tend to be wretched.). The powers in Downtown St. Louis have concluded that the way to revitalize the city is to draw as many of these people there as possible. To quote David Simon, those are the worst types of “white people,” the truly “soulless motherf***ers” who just suck the life out of everything. THEY are the ones who displace the radical, bohemian, independent-thinking artist/intellectual types. I’m not trying to glamorize the chain-smoking, black-coffee and whiskey sipping types, as if they’re the solution to everything. But $200K lofts? Fashion boutiques selling $300 jeans and $75 t-shirts? Please. That’s not revitalization. That’s urban homogenization, the city equivalent of Chesterfield and St. Charles. Ick.

    I returned to St. Louis because 7 years ago, it was largely devoid of that. Now it’s creeping in everywhere. God help us.

  • Brad

    Part of the allure of TRUE city living has to be the danger in it. Is that a little too harsh? I don’t know. Maybe. Think about NYC pre-Rudy. Think about Times Square in those days. For all the hiccups and dirtiness there, and it existed in spades, there was above all a SENSE OF COMMUNITY.

    That’s what’s missing, folks. Community. Knowing your neighbors. Caring about them.

    Unfortunately, that’s not a subject taught in schools and in Generation Narcissism, it’s slipping further and further away. When children are told that it’s “all about them” and that they inherently deserve whatever they want, things corrode. As Cormac McCarthy writes in “No Country For Old Men,” “Anytime you quit hearing “sir” and “ma’am”, the end is pretty much in sight.”

    Civility counts. Concern for others counts. When I say “danger,” I don’t mean “let’s get more crime here so everyday looks like an episode of The Wire.” No. I mean an edge, though. Just a little conflict. Some rivalry. Contrast. When you get that, you get things that contribute to rich and varied lives. Things like a newspaper where there are beat reporters. Beat cops. Storefronts. Galleries. People who care. You’ll find that this isn’t necessarily a geographic thing; Generation Narcissism is everywhere and it’s gaining traction daily. The more successful cities, the cities where white people like to move to, well…they just cater to it. What you’re seeing in St. Louis is a struggle with that, because the strong communal aspect of this town isn’t gone yet. While the loft builders and nightclub owners and the Alive Magazine crowd are doing their best to obliterate it, it’s not dead yet.

    The thing is, most young white people aren’t that concerned with community. They’ll go elsewhere to fulfill their self-interest.

    So to those who can’t make it work in St. Louis, who lack the balls and the soul to support it and invest in it…leave. Good riddance. We don’t want you. A community has to reject contaminants to remain intact.

  • Margie

    I had one goal only in posting here, and that was to help keep some traffic going in the interim as Steve recovers. I chose my topic with that in mind, expressed my sincere PERSONAL opinions … and then ducked. You all haven’t disappointed. ; )

    With any luck we will soon be hearing from Steve again … maybe sooner than you think!

    Cheers, Margie

    PS I’m writing this from the Starbucks parking lot in Springfield IL, and hope to see some of y’all when I get to STL in a few. What! You don’t like Starbucks?

  • Jim Zavist

    Brad – I disagree, but not completely. On your point about St. Louis being the “most racist city in the country”, yes, racism colors way too many discussions in this city.
    .
    No real city “stays the same”. It’s either getting “better” or it’s getting “worse”, and yes, that definition IS in the eye of the beholder. The reality is that St. Louis is big enough (and struggling enough) that there’s room, at least for the forseeable future, for EVERYONE!. Bottom line, we need more people, and I don’t care if they’re “privileged white yuppies”, or “radical, bohemian, independent-thinking artist/intellectual . . . chain-smoking, black-coffee and whiskey sipping types”, hard-working south-city hoosiers or single black parents struggling to make ends meet on the north side. As you point out, diversity is both the key to success and a huge marker of our “soul” as a city.
    .
    “The powers in Downtown St. Louis have concluded that the way to revitalize the city is to draw as many of these people there as possible.” Well duh, yeah, they’re the ones a) are actually willing to consider moving in, and b) have the resources to do so! The alternative is a gradual (or not so) decline into oblivion. I understand, the “bohemian” lifestyle demands gritty surroundings and cheap rent. But both conspire to an ultimate collapse of the built environment. The one thing St. Louis isn’t lacking is a gritty environment. Is it “fair” that some parts of town are gentrifying and some low-rent-paying residents are being forced to relocate? Probably not, especially if you’re one of ‘em. But the one big difference between here and many other cities (NYC, Chicago, Seattle, Denver) is that there ARE viable options. Benton Park is not Soulard is not Lafayette Square. North St. Louis is not Washington. There are plenty of properties available here, including “gritty” ones, for a quarter or a tenth of what you’d have to pay in those cities. Yes, many also come with “gritty” neighborhoods and undesirable neighbors, but if a “pre-Rudy” ambiance is what you desire, there are, unfortunately, plenty of “opportunities” around here.
    .
    “The thing is, most young white people aren’t that concerned with community.” True. The same can be said of the black gang bangers on the north and south sides – they’re sure as hell NOT helping the community, either. And, unfortunately, the same can be said of way too many working folks, retired folks, homeless people and, yes, “bohemian” folks. Most of us are spending most of our time working “for the man” to put food on our tables and a roof over our heads, leaving little/not enough time to reach out, become involved and to build a community. (Then, again, community is in the eye of the beholder.) Combine that with a political structure that prefers to function with as little public input as possible, and what you see is what you get . . .

  • http://www.stlrising.blogspot.com rick bonasch

    In reply to the last two posts regarding community, from what I’ve seen, “sense of community” is by far one our city’s greatest strengths. It drives what happens here. One of the good outcomes of our aldermanic form of government is that it brings local people together around local issues. With 28 wards, government is so local, that it’s very easy to get to know your aldermen and often many others. Another sign of our community driven town is the huge numbers of organizations and groups of many stripes. Over the past few years we’ve see a rise in blog groups and built environment groups. Metropolis St. Louis was on the cutting edge of that movement. And for decades previously, organizations have formed up and been sustained by interested citizens and neighbors all over this city. And it continues. Our successes today can usually be linked to community based efforts. Witness the growth in Old North St. Louis, Skinker DeBaliviere, the Ville, and other neighborhoods all over town. On the path to revitalization, community organizations have been a key partner. Senator Danforth made an important point about this in discussing downtown revitalization efforts. He stated that St. Louis is not a spectator sport. People need to get involved. His goal to strengthen the connections between the Arch grounds and downtown won’t happen unless regular citizens step up and push the agenda forward. His point holds true all the way down to the neighborhood and block level. And this is one of the differences between St. Louis and many other places. In lots of markets, the places with less to do and the “banquet table” already set, you don’t see the active community life we have here. We all have choices on how we want to live. We have chosen to live in St. Louis to be a part of it. This town creates a sense of community. It’s one of our greatest strengths. Steve’s blog contributes to it. KDHX contributes to it. Our countless neighborhood groups contribute to it. And each one of us is vital to it being sustained.

  • r. willis

    northside:

    I would be pleased to live in a city in which women understand that they are not required to shave.

    westnotbest:

    I have no interest in speculating in real estate, but thanks for the heads up.

    R.

  • westnotbest

    The cost of housing affects the local economy for everyone, regardless of whether you’re an owner, renter, or transient. When their is a lack of affordable housing, everyone suffers.

    Portlan’s Community Development Networkhighlights the negative impacts on the broader community when their is a lack of affordable housing.

    Portland (like much of the west): It’s a pretty place, with a high cost of admission.

  • studs lonigan

    I read Brad’s depressing tirade of vitriolic generalizations and hackneyed, fish-in-the-barrel honky-bashing more than once before deciding to reply. This “homogenous population”, i.e., the “creative class” is “one of the worst offenders in the class divide that’s killing this country”? Really? I think instead of HMO, pharmaceutical, and oil company execs who profit obscenely off of human misery, wrap themselves in the flag and eat lunch at Bush’s ranch while they do it. I think of the Republican party pimping itself out to the most ignorant, vindictive, godbag hypocrites in America, stoking their bigoted fears of gay marriage and immoral stem cell research to pack the polls and return the most shockingly horrid president ever to the White House. It’s a false-consciousness wet dream right out of an Emma Goldman speech. I think of rigged elections in Florida and Ohio and Al Gonzalez unable to recall what he did five minutes ago. I think of Bill Clinton and Co. dithering and dicking around over the semantics of “genocide” instead of intervening decisively in Rwanda. I think of our splendid attorney general, who isn’t quite prepared to condemn water boarding as “torture” or as an “interrogation technique”. Yeah, that’s a tough one. Locally, I think of decades of coordinated efforts to marginalize the urban environment by allocating taxpayer funds to heavily subsidize infrastructure and highways to ever-metastasizing, featureless, exurban vistas cluttered with nondescript vinyl houses and strip malls next to cornfields populated by idiots who love to bray about the sanctity of the “private market forces” that built their “neighborhood”, while every inch of their septic tank was paid for grace of public dollars. Interestingly, like Brad, many of these “soulless” folks subscribe to the view that the urban core is, or at least should be, the concentrated domain of minorities and the impoverished. The word “urban” is code for (wink!) “lots of blacks”. To them, anyone else who chooses to reside in the city and likes it must hanker perversely for some chaotic bazaar of social dysfunction and random, senseless violence, 200K loft notwithstanding. TV shows and the local news feed this benighted preconception. The view of urban white people, particularly those who are relatively affluent and educated, as brazen interlopers in the swarthy homeland of “grit” is a tiresome, ignorant distortion rooted in a demeaning and limited view of what cities have, can, and should be. Existence precedes essence. A city is a living organism, animated for good or ill by those who animate it, irrespective of color or class. A prescription that posits it as an abstract, simplistic, romanticized decay mall of monochromatic “community” is for Endsville, not St. Louis

  • Alan in Chicago

    Well…Studs…dude…I wanted to shove something up Brad’s a** myself but just didn’t have the words. Thanks for writing what I would love to have said myself.

  • r. willis

    okay, westnotbest, but your earlier post talked only about the bubble — the bursting of which actually tends to lower rents

    r.

  • westnotbest

    Everything is relative. The west is known for its wild swings up and down. St. Louis is known for being slow and steady. Even with a bubble burst, places like CA and OR are still high priced. Meanwhile, STL remains a steady, affordable alternative.

  • r. willis

    which brings us back to the original thread: st. louis is affordable because it has not much to offer

    r.

  • studs lonigan

    I think that based on what you pay here for spacious/high quality real estate, world class entertainment/culture, (sports, symphony, museums, universities) food, i.e., (“restaurant scene”) etc., St. Louis is a bargain. Yeah, it doesn’t offer the cutting edge of anything, but how essential is that to most day to day lives? If you want to become a famous actor or cinematographer, get outta town; if you want to be a multimedia performance artist utilizing Jell-O, dry ice and electric violin, move to NYC, join the throng and your five room mates. Some passions really trump a groveling worship of the food source here in the hot prairie wind. Still, I wish more such people would actually stay here and view creation of a local “scene” as a sort of secondary part of their creative endeavors, rather than rushing off to join an established, crowded one somewhere else. I wish we had more refreshing weirdness, more edge, more creative people who envision themselves as part of this “picture”, albeit at times a blank canvas.

  • Ken

    “Watching these developers (both of whom I remain fans of, BTW) be threatened, bullied and ultimately extorted into publicly withdrawing and discrediting their own plan was one of the most sickening forms of “civic progress” I can imagine. It disillusioned me in the truest sense. I am still angry about the injustice of this act and the complicity and cooperation of the “leaders” of the groups I mentioned.”

    Margie, if St. Louis left you disillusioned, I wish you luck in Chicago. I do not know your industry, but isn’t it exciting that you were so close to a major event in St. Louis. Albeit a losing effort. But you fought the good fight, and raised awareness. I doubt, unless you have some connections, that the closest you will come to impacting major changes in Chicago will be reading about them in the Tribune.

    Enjoy the ocean lil fish.

  • Bittersweet Sentiment

    I moved to Chicago after graduating college a little over year ago, and I understand you completely. Why did I leave? Because of opportunity to expand my horizons.

    I love St. Louis to death, but it seems futile to care about it. It’s impossible to get things right. There’s too much discord. Too much separatation and ignorance, that it would take something major to change it, too major to comprehend. There’s too many munincipalities, too many aldermans, too many finger pointers, too many show me’s, a freaking city divided by city/county.

    Stop arguing and work towards a goal and like as a community, St. Louis, or eventually you’re going to lose ALL of your talent. I cannot comprehend how backwards people can be in a city with so much potential. How they cannot see the potential is beyond me.

    Tell me something, why would a guy in his young 20′s want to stay in St. Louis? True, there are just some amazing aspects, but after a while, the depressing slow progress and backwards thinking really gets to you. People with talent need environments where possibilities are endless, not limiting, as it seems in St. Louis.

    The story about the Century is downright depressing, but it’s sadly not surprising. I guess that’s what happens when you have a history of leadership being oppressive and anti-progressive for reasons beyond me.

    So to the leaders of Stl, and the sh&t bag parochial self-absorbed politicians that keep our city down, go F@ck yourselves. And if you wanna piece of me, come up to Chicago. Daley’s doing a fine job, and I’m happy that my tax dollars are actually working towards something. I can’t WAIT till those old douchebags in stl die off. They won’t be missed.

    Sorry, the riverways were never going to be a better choice than the railways, and the only way you could see that is with VISION, a term St. Louis leaders seem to lack….and balls to back up that vision.

  • Margie

    Hi Ken,
    This little fishy is finding the lake water just fine, thanks.

  • ozinwichita

    I have to chuckle in reading this blog. I stumbled across it whilst looking for information on relocating to the St. Louis area for as someone in this blog pointed out relationship reasons…family. I am currently living, and luckily temporarily, in Wichita KS, where the sense of inferiority is rife in the Opinion Line of the newspaper. It is the largest city in Wichita with a small town mentality. Now having lived in England, Spain, Netherlands, Germany, Iran etc. as well as many states in USA, I have come to learn that each place has its good and bad and a lot of it depends upon what you as an individual want, need and like. For example, here in Wichita there are very nice, albeit narrow minded people, no rush hour traffic to speak of, reasonably low cost of living, rather boring dining scene, some ethnic diversity who tend to keep to themselves, anyway, in total just not my cup of tea. That does not mean to say that it would not appeal to others and suit their needs just fine. Since I realize that no one place can be perfect, and it looks as if St. Louis will be a destination for us, I am interested in viewpoints of where to live and things to do. Anyone know of a good blog, forum etc. to work on my research? We are going to move with no kids, but dogs, like the more European feel to a neighbourhood wherein one can walk to restaurants, stores etc. We do not want a large house with a large yard to care for but rather something on the urban feel though with a small yard (I’m not into dog walking on freezing days!) A place that is dog friendly with perhaps dog parks. A reasonably safe area with a low crime rate, I understand living in a city will not afford me perfection. Suggestions? Ideas?

    Thank you

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  • sylvio

    hi i saw a distinct and stronger racism when i was livin in new orleans then i do here.

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